George Washington's Eggnog

Eggnog, that total indulgency created by our very Colonial ancestors, is today’s topic.
If you recall your grade school history, the original thirteen colonies were founded by the English (accompanied by all sorts of other miscreant sorts), and if ever there has been a culture that followed traditions, the Anglos are that in spades. Seems after all this time, they still can’t stand living too near the Europeans, though I digress.

We Americans, belonging to an ethnic mosaic, still have inherited a goodly number of those traditions. Such as imbibing in substantive repasts followed by hedonistic deserts heading into winter. With all this blather about eating healthy so one can outlive the grandkids and duly deprive them of an inheritance, I thought a counterargument might be in order.

Last week’s Food Section in The Washington Post included a seasonal article on ‘adult’ eggnog. Which brought to mind how it’s high time to make a batch of the good stuff. Admittedly, there’s not much about this recipe that falls under a ‘good for you’ category, unless you’re counting on how it makes you and your guests feel. Under that category, it scores a perfect 10.

The Washington Post’s recent article offers an eggnog recipe that approaches this one I’m about to share, but I find it interesting that the original recipe dedicated to George was published a while back in, er, uh, ahem, the selfsame (cough) newspaper. In the late 70s to be more precise. Back in the dark ages before online newspaper archives evidently.

The 70s article’s trope claimed the recipe originated in the first President’s own time. In days with no indoor heating save for the fireplace, I can see where it might have been popular to warm a heart when the feet and hands were lost causes. And it could keep without refrigeration, which was the only reason it was 30% alcohol–to preserve the egg and dairy stuff–right. They didn’t drink as heavily being busy writing declarations and constitutions–right again.

Unlike last week’s Post’s writer, Becky Krystal, my own experience with eggnog is deep rooted in multiple holiday seasons’ efforts, tasting, mixing, tasting, blending, tasting and so on, with the best batches being made while still sober.

While Krystal does mention “the flavor only improves with time,” allow me to clarify: the longer you let this eggnog chill, the deeper the alcohol moves into the background. In 3 hours’ time, it will still be a robust, alcoholic drink. In 3 weeks’ time, you’d think ‘look ma, no booze!’ but please don’t be misled and go dancing naked in the street after too much. Nor, more importantly, let your guests, unless you intend to film them for later postings on Facebook and Twitter (tee hee). One to two cups max after a full course dinner. Our forefathers needed their comfort food; we just need our comfort, though there’s a reason God created cabbies and guest bedrooms.

My two complaints about this new Post recipe are: not enough attention to the selected booze and that it proportionately has way too much sugar. On top of 2 cups of sugar, a ½ cup of a sweet liqueur? Heavens, no! What about taking care of you health? Seriously, do you really want to outlive that sniveling little one who won’t finish her greens so she can visit you in a nursing home?

Great eggnog, I insist, is not about the sugar; it’s not your sweet tooth we’re trying to make happy-fied.

The WP link also discusses using pasteurized eggs, or cooking the custard, Salmonella being on the minds of many these days. HOWEVER, should you decide to cook the custard, let it cool before adding the alcohol or you’ll be cooking the booze off as well. I like to follow Prez George’s recipe using raw eggs. With a third of the liquid being alcohol, it’s always taken care of the issue, though I do wash the eggs–and buy organic. Protecting one’s health is important.

I’ll confess I got my favorite cat, Miss DC tipsy the first time I attempted an eggnog (I was twenty-something). Not meaning to, but meows and fur balls aside, eggs and cream taste wonderful together, as any cat will tell you. We both learned a lesson that evening. With wisdom comes age. Or eggnog.

So here ‘tis:

George Washington’s Eggnog

Ingredients:
1 quart heavy cream (not whipping cream)
1 quart whole milk
1 doz. eggs (fresh eggs to assure the whites will stiffen)
1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar
1 pint brandy (or good cognac)
1/2 pint rye whiskey (Catoctan Creek, Dickel, Knobs Creek )
1/4 pint rum
1/4 pint dry sherry (find a sherry with a nutty flavor or even a good port. This year I’m doing Graham’s 20 year tawny port.)

• Mix the alcohol and set it aside. Tasting is optional.
• Separate the egg yolks from whites and set the whites in the frig to keep them chill.
• In a deep bowl, on a low mixer speed blend the sugar into the egg yolks to create a custard. Higher speeds if you like splatter.
• Slowly add alcohol mix.
Slowly add the milk, and finally the cream.
• Once the cream is mixed, stop! (see below re. whipping cream.)
• Stiffen the egg whites and fold into the custard.
• Chill the eggnog and chill yourself.

Choosing the brandy and sherry carefully is recommended. The brandy / cognac is half the alcohol, so don’t buy the cheap stuff; it stands out. Likewise, the sherry can add interesting background notes. The other two alcohols are there to build a strong argument.

Refrigerate away from spying eyes and cats. Taste regularly, frequency depending on how much you feel is necessary. In 3 days’ time you’ll be amazed at the transformation. In a week, it’s achieved a sublime subtlety.

So why not use whipping cream? If you like an eggnog stiff enough to serve on your strawberry shortcake, go for it. I’m telling you, I’ve done it.

The ornament is frosted white with crystal wings—the blue’s from a nearby light and an “unsharp mask” done in Photoshop.